

To temporarily secure the joist to the beam, I screwed the joist down at an angle into the first beam.
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To install the joists, I cut each joist to the same length (16 feet), marked the location of the joist I wanted to line up with the first beam (about 5 feet from the edge), and positioned the joist across the two support beams based on the marked location on the first beam and the marked location on each joist. I wound up changing to a thicker siding material during the build, so I had to trim the corners of the siding to fit behind the post. Tip: To determine this space between these two closely-spaced joists, you should account for the thickness of the sheathing and siding (including corner pieces) if plan to have a post (supporting a railing) next to the house. Since I didn’t want to screw the deck boards and the plywood floor into a single joist, I used two joists spaced fairly close together (3 inches) at the intersection of the deck and house (I added these extra joists after these pictures were taken). I marked one of the support beams (the “first beam”) where I planned to position each joist I did not mark the second support beam as the two beams are not exactly parallel to each other.Īlso, as noted below, I planned to use different material for the deck boards and the floor of the house part of the treehouse. The large nuts on the ends of the TABs dictate the limits the treehouse can move along the TABs, which, in my case, was less than 6 inches. The 2x8 PT floor joists are generally spaced 16 inches apart (on center), but I ensured that no joist was within 6 inches of the tree trunks to allow the trees to grow and, more importantly, to allow the treehouse to move with respect to the tree (on windy days) without contacting the tree. For a treehouse about this size, I’d say to buy a 25 lb box of 3” screws, which is much less expensive than buying five 5 lb boxes.Īlso, it’s a good idea to mulch around the trees to prevent their roots from being crushed from the weight of people, tools, and materials during the build and during use. I generally used coated screws for the entire project instead of nails, as the movement of the treehouse may cause the nails to pop out over time.

Tip: Order at least 10-20% extra lumber, and MANY more screws than you think. I found it easiest to get my list from my rough sketches, as opposed to creating more formal drawings. My family was on board so I started planning each wall to get a materials list.

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My family wanted it easily accessible for kids and grandparents alike, big enough to house a birthday sleepover, lots of windows to enjoy the view of the horse pasture and of the host trees, a deck to enjoy being outside in the trees, and places to relax and read.Īfter thinking about the plans for hours and getting my family’s input (sorry, 7-year old, no tv in the treehouse), I sketched my design (on a napkin). Thinking of how you and your family would like to use the treehouse is the first step in designing your custom treehouse.
